some poppin joints!

http://www.radrides.com/photogallery.php

For anyone thats a fan of the American stuff, some very flash examples at that site

http://www.radrides.com/photogallery.php?sub=fastforward

that truley is what cars are all about!
oh for more banknote!!!

http://www.radrides.com/photogallery.php?sub=quadraduce&ci=1

saw this car in a mag back when it hit the streets about 96ish, had a purple and yellow paint job then and a different interior.

notice something about that front end that you don't normally see on such a rod?

hmm, 4wd eh
that would explain the name

yup

if memory serves, it's the drive line from a gmc syclone
http://www.fast-autos.net/gmc/syclone.html

those have a turbo 4.3 v6, but i think the rod has a 'vette motor. it's stupidly fast, i.e. as fast 0-60mph as teh mclaren f1.

fully road legal too.

For show and/or for straight line speed yeah.. I like cars to handle and stop as well..

i think they will have no problems stopping
http://www.radrides.com/photogallery.php?sub=chicayne&ci=4

Looks nice, but what does the car weigh? Cross drilled rotors are for show not race.

http://www.radrides.com/photogallery.php?sub=sniper

was on Rides last night... V10 viper engine in it.

still gonna be leaps and bounds ahead of the standard item though

Yep, im just picky when it comes to cars, cars for show are wicked for show, but they wont get raced.

i can tell ya that the awd deuce can handle - all the suspension was designed to be a clone of the then current indy car designs. (LOL ONLY TURN LEFT RITE?)

whats the skinny on cross drilled and or slotted rotors anywho?? ive heard so many theories i dont know whats what. there must be some performance benefits. not that you ever need them for road use.

everything i've seen points to this

cross drilled are great if you do a lot of heavy duty, high temp brake work where heat dissapation is important - i.e. racing

for the most part, you are actually reducing the amount of pad to rotor surface area

slotting - scraped pads clean, but chews through 'em

well that seems to make sense
also ive heard cross drilling reduces unsprung weight, although i would have thought that that would probably be negligable
and also the holes and slots allow gasses between pads and rotors to escape

yeah the weight loss is insignifigant. considering how many wouldn't blink about running big heavy 20" rims anyway.

and yeah, it does allow gas buildup to escape, gas buildup can force the pad to 'skate' over the rotor - again, this is a race consideration than road.

are f1 brakes drilled and slotted?

This is completly wrong sorry kris, cross drilled rotors are not for racing and are only recommended for street use, cross drilled rotors are higly prone to cracking under high temperature change i.e. racing

This is why companies such as DBA Australia dont make racing rotors that are cross drilled, their Flag Ship range the DBA 5000 series are slotted only (i know becoz ive just bought a set for my car)

The guys at Race Brakes in Auckland wont sell you cross drilled if your gonna use them for racing because its on their head if your rotor brakes apart at the end of the straight and you meet the wall.

We only run slotted brakes on the Mazda Pro7 I pit crew for,

Cross drilled rotors ARE lighter, this is why top drag cars run them (drag racing you only need to hit the brakes once so you dont get the massive temperature fluctuations involved with ciruit racing)

The best upgrade is slotted brakes, slotted is better than standard because of the de-gassing as well as pads cleaning properties they have

Slotted brakes do make a difference on the road (im speaking from experience, Ive run DBA slotted rotors since i got my car)

F1 Brakes are carbon fibre, lets not mix apples with oranges

Cross drilled rotors were devised orginally as a means of reducing unsprung weight, they obviously help with degassing but that is not the primary function, the holes can lighten the weight of the disc a fair bit.
The problem with cross drilled rotors is reliability, especially with most aftermarket ones because they have been drilled after they have been made, the ones on the likes of porsches and ferraris have been cast with holes in place which makes them a lot stronger than other drilled rotors but still not as reliable as a solid disc. with the surface area full of holes, you get uneven cooling that can result in the rotor cracking between the holes, especially under hard use.
they are probably not so go for street use too because of situations such as going through puddles which gives a sudden change of temperature on the disc.

the whole idea of degassing is not such a factor these days because of the better materials the pads are made of, the problem was with the old pads being made with asbestos which is why they started slotting them. a little bit of degassing is still needed but not as much as before.
all in all the best way you are going to get better braking is by getting stickier tyres.

tyres! every1 forgets the tyres, good pads and good fluid will give a nice increase in braking performance too but tyres is where its at, only problem is tyres wear out quick and top quality road or race tyres cost a fricken boat load but the difference good tyres make is awesome.

We run Toyo Proxes RA1's on the race car i crew for, not top quality but race tyres not for road use and holy shit the race car pulls up better than anything else ive been in, car weighs nothing but having said that we are only allowed to run standard callipers (2 pot) slotted rotors and Mintex M1166 Pads (good pads, ive got a set for my car) back straight at Puke over 200kmh, 80m mark to hairpin and it pulls up wicked